Square and gardens of Alpargate

The popularly known Plaza del Alpargate, or in other words, del Cristo de Gracia—called El Esparraguero by its faithful—has served since medieval times as a link between the Ajerquía and the city’s expansion to the East. The Puerta de Plasencia once stood here, not far from the place where the Inquisition established its dreadful stake for burning heretics.

Just a few meters away lie two singular treasures that adorn the gardens of our plaza: the fountain and the Church of the Padres de Gracia. The fountain was moved from Puerta Nueva to its current location in 1950, when the city architect Don Víctor Escribano Ucelay led the renovation of the square.

The Church of the Padres de Gracia in Plaza del Alpargate

Three bullfights held in 1747 were enough to cover the expenses for the construction of the fountain. Not far from where it now stands, there was once a watering place where the herdsmen would bring the fighting bulls at night to feed and water them on their way to the bullfighting fairs.

The lush vegetation that fills the Plaza del Alpargate barely allows the monumental fountain to be appreciated from afar. Its weathered limestone transports us to Cordoban Baroque, though it features some uncommon elements for our city—some speak of a certain Incan influence. A tall basin forms a base of lines and curves, from which three pillars topped with pinnacles rise, pouring water. Next to the fountain stands a small Triumph of Saint Raphael, brought from the old El Arcángel Municipal Stadium.

The history of the Church of the Padres de Gracia begins in 1607, the year in which the City Council allowed the Trinitarian Fathers, thanks to the efforts of Saint John Baptist of the Conception, to occupy the old Hermitage of Our Lady of Grace, and also granted them a small house next to it. The hermitage and house served as the church and convent of the Trinitarian Fathers until the new temple was completed in 1680.

El Rescatado and El Esparraguero

The façade was designed as a retable by Sebastián Vidal, who succeeded in creating an exceptional architectural and sculptural ensemble. Three lintelled openings with friezes of triglyphs and metopes, topped by split circular pediments, make up the entrance to the temple.

Above them are three sculptures in niches: Saint John of Matha and Felix of Valois, founders of the Trinitarian Order, kneel in prayer on either side, while at the center is a sculptural group of the Angel presenting the captives to the Holy Trinity—all of them housed in niches crowned by triangular pediments.

Higher up, on pedestals, are the personifications of the three theological virtues: Faith, Hope, and Charity. The façade is topped by a large triangular pediment containing two more sculptures—two supporting angels flanking the central oculus that provides light to the temple. On the lower corners of this pediment are the archangels Saint Michael and Saint Raphael, and at the top, crowning the ensemble, is the Virgin of Grace.

The church has a basilica-style floor plan, covered by a barrel vault with lunettes and an oval dome on pendentives. The dome is decorated with paintings of David, Isaac, Abraham, Jacob, Joachim, Hezekiah, and Solomon. The pendentives bear the coats of arms of Don Pablo de Acevedo and his wife Doña Ana de Córdoba, patrons of the convent.

As in other Cordoban churches, several altars were built on the Gospel side, while chapels were constructed on the Epistle side. Two chapels stand out: the one dedicated to Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno Rescatado, which features a small shrine, and the one of the Holy Christ of Grace, El Esparraguero, which houses the remains of Saint John Baptist of the Conception.

The vault and walls of the church are decorated with paintings, some of them heavily deteriorated, depicting the life and works of Fray Juan de la Concepción. Among the best preserved are the scene of his death—surrounded by friars of the Order—and his vision of Christ and the Virgin.

If you’re wondering what to visit in Córdoba, a great option would be the Plaza del Alpargate, by choosing one of our guided tours. Choosing quality tourism means choosing ArtenCórdoba.

Text: J.A.S.C.