Trinity Square

It dominates and gives name to the Plaza de la Trinidad, the Church of San Juan y Todos los Santos, which formerly belonged to the Convent of the Trinitarians. A convent founded by Ferdinand III the Saint himself after the conquest of the city in 1236.

Origin and historical evolution of the church

We have very little information about the original church of the Trinitarian convent, but we do know that well into the 16th century, the roof collapsed, leaving the interior exposed. Thanks to the generous donations of Don Martín de Córdoba and his daughter Doña Teresa, the church could be repaired and was in perfect condition by the middle of the century. The repair must not have been very good, as a century later, according to written sources, the church was in a state of ruin. In this case, the decision was made to build a new church from the ground up, with works lasting more than ten years and the church being inaugurated on the day of the Holy Trinity in the year 1705.

Architectural description and imagery

The church, as we know it today, has a Latin cross floor plan with a single nave, covered by a barrel vault with lunettes. At the foot of the church, the choir rises above a segmental vault, in this case with lunettes decorated with frescoes, as apparently were all the walls. The transept is covered by a dome on pendentives.

Inside, we can highlight the Holy Christ of Health, an anonymous 18th-century work and the titular image of the Via Crucis brotherhood. From the neighboring brotherhood of La Santa Faz are the images of Our Father Jesus the Nazarene, a work by Antonio Dubé de Luque, and Holy Mary of the Trinity, made by Antonio Salto, both contemporary. The images of these two brotherhoods, from Holy Monday and Holy Tuesday respectively, are covered in greater detail in the Holy Week section.

The façade and the exterior of the church

The church’s ostentatious portal contrasts sharply with its white façade, voluminous yet sober, topped by a large triangular pediment that houses little more than two oculi and a central semicircular opening. The entrance features a round arch flanked by pairs of Doric columns, above which stands a frieze with triglyphs and plain metopes.

In the second tier, the use of Solomonic columns stands out—apparently the first time they were used in the city—and a sculptural group in a niche where an angel dressed in a Trinitarian habit aids two captives, symbolizing the main mission of the order. The bell gable, more in line with the façade, stands out for its great simplicity.

Historical buildings in Plaza de la Trinidad

In the Plaza de la Trinidad, opposite the aforementioned church, stands the former Palace of the Dukes of Hornachuelos or House of the Hoces, a noble building whose appearance reflects the remodeling carried out in 1965 to adapt the property for the School of Arts and Crafts. Of the original building, only part of the façade, the main staircase, and the garden have survived.

Inside, thanks to two commemorative plaques, two distinguished artists who passed through its halls are remembered: Mateo Inurria Lainosa, who was its director for several years and after whom it is named, and Julio Romero de Torres, a teacher, although he taught at the former location on Agustín Moreno Street, a building still used as a branch of the same school.

Luis de Góngora and literary remembrance

But the popular Plaza de la Trinidad, which thankfully belongs to the increasingly large group of pedestrian squares, holds one more surprise—the memory of one of the most remembered and admired Cordobans, Don Luis de Góngora.

He died near the square, in a house located on the street formerly known as de las Campanas—named after the bells of the Trinitarian church’s bell gable—and today known as Sánchez de Feria Street; there, one can find a simple and moving plaque that reads: “in this place died on May 23, 1627, the celebrated Cordoban poet Luis de Góngora y Argote, to whom writers and lovers of literature dedicate this tribute.”

The tribute the square holds, as mentioned, is a beautiful sculpture made by Valencian artist Amadeo Ruiz Olmos in 1967, who was also a teacher at the school. Chronicles state that on the day of the unveiling, many literary figures gathered in the square, including Dámaso Alonso. The occasion deserved it.

Visiting Plaza de la Trinidad

If you’re wondering what to do in Córdoba, we recommend visiting the Plaza de la Trinidad by booking one of our guided tours. Choose high-quality tourism with qualified staff—don’t hesitate, ArtenCórdoba is the best option.

Text: J.A.S.C.