Calle San Cayetano

The popular Cuesta de San Cayetano was, in the mid-20th century, a dusty and solitary ramp that the mayor, Alfonso Cruz Conde, decided to transform into what it is today. The works were led by the municipal architect, Víctor Escribano Ucelay, who designed a grand antechamber to the Carmelite convent, composed of two circular flower beds around which the various ramps were projected. Scholars say that Víctor Escribano sought to give the ensemble a “Baroque perspective” that would impress visitors.

The site would be greatly enhanced without the dozens of cars parked there every day, but well, step by step. It is true that the last section, already part of the convent’s grounds, is accessed by a small stairway, enough to prevent traffic from invading it.

The Facade of the Carmelite Convent

Don Miguel Ángel Ortí Belmonte tells us that in the year 1638, the stonemason Andrés Gutiérrez signed a contract committing himself to build the facade of the Carmelite convent. It is a facade currently painted in a deep ochre color, which contrasts notably with the stone of the portal. A beautiful portal configured with a Serliana, or in other words, a central round arch flanked by two lintelled openings.

Above this rises a scallop-shell niche housing a sculptural group representing Saint Joseph holding the child Jesus by the hand, in which some see the hand of Bernabé del Río, and which confirms the true dedication of the temple. The portal is crowned by a split circular pediment, supported by slender pilasters, which houses the coat of arms of the Carmelite Order.

Two more coats of arms adorn the facade, belonging to Doña Beatriz de Haro Portocarrero, …founder and first patron of this convent…, as stated on her tombstone located at the foot of the High Altar. The facade is topped by a vast triangular pediment, pierced by an oculus that provides light to the central nave.

The belfry has two sections: the first with two round arches for the bells, the second with only one. The belfry ends in a curved pediment, topped with finials and a central cross.

The Church

The church has a Latin cross floor plan, with a single nave covered by a barrel vault with lunettes, a dome on pendentives at the crossing, and very short transept arms. The right arm gives access to the sacristy and other convent facilities, while the left leads to the Chapel of the Tabernacle, where Our Father Jesus Fallen, titular image of the popular Brotherhood of the Bullfighters, is located.

Pictorial Decoration

The original paintings that decorated the church walls are not preserved, though some baseboard paintings, forming circles, may date from the mid-17th century. Between 1721 and 1724, the dome covering the crossing was decorated with scenes from the life of Saint John of the Cross; the rest of the church was painted between 1724 and 1727.

The walls exhibit a clear horror vacui (fear of empty space), where everything is ornamented with vegetal elements—corollas, rolled leaves, winding stems—and human figures; naked cherubs are very common, more than 200, offering a multitude of poses.

In large cartouches, there are paintings alluding to the founders of various orders, while in smaller ones their names appear: Saint Dominic, Saint Francis of Assisi, Saint Peter Nolasco… In the lunettes of the upper choir, the Life of Jesus is depicted, beginning with The Betrothal of the Virgin Mary; above them are various plaques with Bible verses in Latin.

Notable Paintings

In our view, the most interesting paintings are those created by the painter known as Fray Juan Bautista del Santísimo Sacramento around the year 1667. In the presbytery, on the epistle side, we find Elijah with the chariot of fire casting his mantle to Elisha, Saint Teresa, and Saint John of the Cross; on the gospel side, the Virgin of Mount Carmel giving the scapular to Saint Simon Stock.

On the wall at the entrance to the Chapel of the Tabernacle, there are two more canvases. One represents a tree, symbolizing the order, with the Virgin of Mount Carmel as its trunk. The other painting is The Fountain of Elijah in Paradise. Apparently —we haven’t entered yet—, the best works by this artist are in the cloister, where you can find The Annunciation of Mary, The Presentation in the Temple…

Guided Tours

If you wish to discover the Cuesta de San Cayetano, don’t hesitate to book one of our guided tours. We are experts in the interpretation of Cordoba’s historical heritage. If you’ve chosen to enjoy tourism in Córdoba, choose a quality option, choose ArtenCórdoba.

Text: J.A.S.C.